Mass emigration often takes with it more than just people. Those leaving take with them traditions that they cling to lovingly as it is often all they have to identify with in their new world. Customs are regarded with great loyalty and are passed down to the next generation like tangible heirlooms. Meanwhile back in the motherland we happily progress without such sentiment, easily abandoning the old ways and embracing the new. This is why some things deemed inherently Irish abroad are quite foreign to those of us who actually live here. Our eyes roll in derision at the sound of “Begorra” or “Top of the mornin’ to ya!” On hearing I was a butcher an American lady recently remarked how I must be “very rich from selling all that corned beef.” I almost laughed at the innocence. When did you last have proper corned beef and cabbage? Would your children even recognise it on a plate? Now I’m talking real deal corned beef .
Now already some of you reading this are surprised to see the ‘ed’ on the end of the word ‘corn’. Yes it is ‘corned beef’ as opposed to ‘corn beef’, as most people ask for. You might think I’m being a boring pedant for pointing that out, but it might give you an idea as to its origin. The beef was ‘corned’ as a method of preservation before the days of modern refridgeration. So how do you ‘corn’ something? Well it has nothing to do with actual corn and more to do with lumps of salt. The dictionary defines corned beef as “beef cured or pickled in brine”. Brine is basically salt water. In one dictionary it goes on to say, “Corned beef is traditionally served on Easter Sunday in Ireland and also served on St Patrick’s Day”. Oh yes, every Irish household has corned beef on Easter Sunday and St Patrick’s Day along with a large pot of cabbage and afterwards, bellies full, we all sit around the fire telling stories and frightening the bejayus out of each other with tales of the banshee and fairies! Obviously whoever made that particular entry into the dictionary had never actually been to Ireland. Corned beef and cabbage is considered about as Irish today as spaghetti and meatballs. We will forgive them though because real corned beef is coming back into fashion and, who knows, maybe we will all be eating corned beef and cabbage for our lunch next Easter Sunday.
The actual process of corning is very old. One source suggests that it dates back to Anglo Saxon times when the meat was dry cured in coarse ‘corns’ of salt. These were salt pellets, not unlike what goes into a dishwasher these days, about the size of kernels of corn. They were rubbed into the beef to keep it from going off and to preserve it. Recipes vary in how long the process takes. Some say four days while one I found recently suggests 3 weeks.
While I may have poked fun at the Americans for their stereotyping of modern Ireland, this country was actually the largest exporter of corned beef until 1825. It was a booming industry for Cork since the 1600s. From there it was sent all over the world, mostly in cans and it is said that the British army survived on cans of Cork corned beef during the Napoleonic wars. I also read that tinned corned beef is apparently a delicacy in Pacific Island countries and is usually brought out for special occasions such as Christmas Day. In the particular article I was reading it said that “tins are often used as gifts at weddings, funerals and feasts and it is also common to be eaten with rice.” Maybe that last statement is about as true as “Corned beef is very popular in Ireland on Easter Sunday”. I find it very hard to believe that a tin of corned beef is a suitable wedding gift in the Pacific Islands in 2009 and why anyone would bring a gift of tinned meat to a funeral is beyond me. I tend to think it is a historical fact if true at all. If there are any Pacific Islanders living the vicinity, though, you might let me know. In France corned beef is known as bully beef, not because it is aggressive but it comes from the French word for boiled which is ‘bouili’. The French do sell a huge amount of it in oblong tins which always includes a small amount of gelatin.
The actual practice of salting meat goes way back. It was very popular in cold areas where they found they could preserve the meat by salting it. Nomads on foot or horse could also put salt on meat and hike for days without it spoiling. Of course times have changed and the fridge has solved many of our problems, but our fascination with all things vintage is causing a revival in popularity and demand.
So here is the challenge. You can of course corn your own beef very successfully at home and there are many different recipes available while the principle is pretty much the same. It takes a short time to get ready, but a little like Bulmers, you need to add lots of time. On the other hand you could order some from your local butcher and introduce the family to an old tradition. Maybe invite an elderly relative for dinner as they will no doubt have a real corned beef story to tell. I’m still a little unsure about the cabbage combination. Some swear by it, but I think a modern twist might be a slow cooked red cabbage and, for real comfort, some sliced creamy garlic potatoes! The choice is yours but do try some real hot corned beef and of course, the cold leftovers are marvelous in a sandwich. Trust me once you’ve had the real thing, you’ll never go back to the sliced, square stuff again. I welcome your feedback at pat@jwb.ie
